Note: More #BuhayJeepney photos are available in my Instagram account.
Buhay
Jeepney
For decades, the jeepney has been hailed as a symbol of Filipino ingenuity, the king of the road, the unstoppable force that drives much of the Philippines’ chaotic public transportation system.
Born out of post-war necessity, the lowly jeepney has since evolved into a cultural icon symbolizing the everyday Filipinos grit and creativity.
And now as government modernization programs accelerate, the jeepney faces an uncertain future.
This piece takes a closer look at the complexities behind this transition and pays tribute to the people whose lives have revolved around these iconic vehicles for generations.
Click on the play button to hear jeepney sounds while reading the article.
Every morning in Metro Manila, the metropolis wakes up to the sound and smell of diesel engines sputtering to life. The streets rapidly fill with a chaotic rush of private cars, colorum vans, motorbikes, trucks and buses, but none are as unmistakable as the jeepney. Stainless steel, chrome-plated, bursting with color, and packed with passengers, these moving canvases of Filipino life have ferried millions through the capital’s tangled roads for generations. Jeepneys are now more than just transport.
They are often called a symbol of Filipino resilience, and perhaps that is true, but “resilience” has become an overused word. It is too often used to romanticize poverty, to put a glossy sheen on what is, in reality, the constant struggle of making do with less. It is easy to celebrate resilience when you are not the one forced to live within its bounds. But now back to our jeepney story, this rant on resilience should be a story on its own.
As mentioned above, every morning, way before the sun fully rises, millions of Filipinos begin their long journey through choked city streets. On average, they will spend more than four hours commuting to and from work. And for decades, one vehicle has carried much of the weight of that daily migration: the jeepney.
Jeepney plying Lubiran St. Sta. Mesa, Manila. 5 March 2024.
Advertisement
Yes, the jeepney is more than just public transportation. For a huge lot, it is a familiar constant in a rapidly changing world. Its ear-drum shattering engines and loudspeakers, colorful wraps, air-brushed artworks, and crowded, uncomfortable, bug-laden benches have become part of Filipinos’ daily life. For the working class, it has long been the most practical and accessible way to navigate the sprawling cities and far-flung provinces of the country.
A product born out from post-war scarcity, the jeepney’s story is one of resourcefulness. At the end of World War II, surplus American military jeeps left behind by the liberating troops were either sold or given to locals. Eventually, Filipino mechanics extended their frames, added passenger seating, and transformed them into moving works of art. Each jeepney became an expression of personal and cultural identity, with religious icons, bold colors, slogans, images from pop culture, and symbols decorating every inch of available space.
But today, this enduring icon is being pushed out in favor of more modern, and “eco-friendly” minibuses called e-Jeepneys. The government’s public transport modernization program seeks to replace all aging, smoke-belching jeepneys with these new minibuses. Officials point to pressing issues like dangerous emissions, obvious lack of safety standards, and the urgent need to upgrade an already choked up public transport system.
They are often called a symbol of Filipino resilience, and perhaps that is true, but "resilience" has become an overused word. It is too often used to romanticize poverty, to put a glossy sheen on what is, in reality, the constant struggle of making do with less.
A jeepney conductor, also called a barker, signals to incoming passengers the remaining seats to be filled before departing.
Yet for the majority of drivers and operators, modernization feels less like progress and more like ethnic cleansing. The cost of acquiring the new e-Jeepneys would run into millions of pesos, well beyond the reach of small operators who have kept the system running for generations. Either you are forced into debt, or just taken out of work entirely. Critics of the modernization effort argue that program is less about clean air and safety and more about pricing out the poor, and like that of taxis, consolidating control under corporate fleets, and stripping away a grassroots system that grew from the ingenuity of the working man.
Inevitably, change is coming. The familiar stainless steel and chrome-plated bodies, adorned with hand-painted saints, superheroes, and slogans, are slowly disappearing. In their place are bland, uniform, sanitized vehicles that lack the soul, and spunk, and history, and relevance carried by every customized jeepney. What was once held up as a symbol of Filipino pride now risks becoming yet another casualty of a modernization narrative that too often forgets who gets left behind.
A jeepney waiting for passengers during the morning rush hour.
A female commuter hanging ontu a full jeepney a little over an hour before the evening rush along Carriedo St., Sta. Cruz, Manila.
This series of captured moments is an ode to the jeepney and the lives it has carried. To the drivers who continue to brave the elements and the traffic, the conductors who called out destinations, the mechanics who kept the engines running, and the millions of passengers who climbed aboard every single day.
This is an ongoing tribute, a living article, with more jeepney posts and photos getting added over time, to an enduring symbol of Filipino ingenuity, captured before it forever disappears from our streets.
Advertisement